منابع مشابه
An Empirical Method for Estimating Surf Heights from Deep Water Significant Wave Heights and Peak Periods in Coastal Zones Wit
Accurate and timely surf forecasts communicated in a clear, concise manner are essential in planning nearshore activities. In Hawaii, a large population of recreational enthusiasts comprised of both residents and visitors use surf forecasts on a daily basis. Forecasts are vital to commercial ventures, coastal engineers, ecosystem and geophysical researchers, and governmental coastal planners in...
متن کاملGeneralized Set of Boussinesq equations for surf zone region
In this report, generalized wave breaking equations are developed using three dimensional fully nonlinear extended Boussinesq equations to encompass rotational dynamics in wave breaking zone. The derivation for vorticity distributions are developed from Reynold based stress equations.
متن کاملWave Group Forcing of Low Frequency Surf Zone Motion
The nearshore potential vorticity balance of Bowen and Holman (1989) is expanded to include the forcing from wave group-induced radiation stresses. Model results suggest that the forcing from these radiation stresses can drive oscillations in the longshore current that have a spatial structure similar to linear shear instabilities of the longshore current. In addition, the forced response is ne...
متن کاملSurf Zone Wave Breaking Identification Using Marine Radar
This paper presents a novel combination of synchronous, large coverage marine radar, calibrated pulsed Doppler radar, and video remote sensing observations from a nearshore field site. The data enable the analysis of the evolution and characteristics of the remotely observed signals from surf zone waves. The combination of different remote sensors allows a better discrimination between breaking...
متن کاملScaling surf zone turbulence
[1] Turbulence in the surf zone, the shallow region adjacent to the shoreline, has a key role in beach erosion, fertilization, dispersal, and larval settlement of marine invertebrates, and microbial contamination dilution in beach waters. Breakingwave generated (the dominant source) surf zone turbulence is understood poorly. A new surf zone turbulent dissipation rate scaling is derived, that co...
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ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: Coastal Engineering
سال: 1984
ISSN: 0378-3839
DOI: 10.1016/0378-3839(84)90028-0